Planting and caring for daffodils. Narcissus: planting and care, varieties, cultivation. Do I need to cover daffodils for the winter

2018-01-25 Igor Novitsky

Daffodils are beautiful flowers with delicate colors and pleasant aroma. They are unpretentious to maintain, which makes them common in all garden areas. Growing daffodils does not require much investment or effort. Daffodils get along well with garden flowers in the neighborhood and can quite fully feel in one place for more than three years. However, after that, the bulbs begin to grow and compete for a place “under the sun”, they stop producing high-quality large buds. Therefore, flower growers recommend planting flowers, if not every year, then once every four years.

Choosing a place for planting daffodils

Daffodils, due to their beauty and delicate color, are in demand not only in the beds and flower beds of gardeners, but also in
decoration of interiors, landscapes, hanging flower beds, lawns. Daffodils get along well in flower beds with other bulbous cultivated flowers. In order for daffodils to bloom well and are pleasing to the eye, for planting them, it is necessary to select a site that is sufficiently illuminated, calm and well-drained. Daffodils do not like the scorching sun, it can destroy a delicate flower, take this into account when planting and choose places with variable shade.

What should be the soil

First of all, with good aeration, moisture-consuming, the level of soil acidity should not exceed 7%. If there is groundwater under the site, make sure that it will not wash away the root system, otherwise it will lead to decay and disease. The area for planting daffodils should be free of weeds, and ideally should have a one-year break of plantings of bulbous plants so that the infection that could settle in the soil can get rid of itself.

Preparing the soil for daffodils

It is better to plant bulbs from August to October; you must calculate the exact time of planting yourself, since it will depend on your climatic latitudes. It takes a month for a daffodil to take root well, so this should also be considered when planting the bulb. The root system of the flower should anchor well enough in the ground, before the frost begins.

How to properly prepare daffodil bulbs for planting in open ground

In order for the bulb to develop well, and in the future to give healthy children, you need to follow some simple rules. For planting, we select medium-sized bulbs, about 6 centimeters, of the correct shape, weighty and not affected by pests. The selected daffodil bulbs are best placed in a separate fabric bag filled with perlite, so the bulbs are stored until planting. Before planting, daffodil bulbs are recommended to be treated with a fungicidal preparation.

Planting daffodils correctly

In order to properly approach the planting of flowers, first you need to determine the type of your soil on the site, take into account the size of the bulbs themselves. The bulbs are planted to a depth of 13 centimeters (heavy soils, warm climate) and up to (26 centimeters, light soils, cold climates). Plant the bulbs so that freezing soil does not touch them, and the groundwater does not wash away the root system. Therefore, it is so important, when planting, to take into account all the positive and negative factors in the complex. Leave the distance between the rows about half a meter, for convenience when caring for the plantings. To get large children, daffodils are planted at a closer distance to each other, and at a smaller embedment in the ground.

To prevent your flowers from freezing, the soil after planting can be mulched, for this, peat mixed with humus and straw is used. And when the first frosts come, the flowerbed with plantings can additionally be covered with straw or dry grass, however, in early spring, the mulch is removed so that the plant can start growing without obstacles.

Outdoor Daffodil Care

Irrigation rates and soil aeration

In early spring, if the winter was little snow, daffodils will need regular and abundant watering. As soon as the plant begins to grow intensively, watering does not stop, but also loosens the soil, for better absorption of moisture by the flower and to prevent the formation of an earth crust. The main rule for watering should be that after the end of flowering, the plant also needs an increased supply of moisture for the normal process of bulb reproduction. Do not forget to weed the weeds between the rows, because the weed is not a companion to a cultivated plant.

Apply fertilizer by growing season

When the first signs of daffodil growth appear, you can start feeding with complex specialized fertilizers, following the instructions. Subsequent saturation of the soil should be carried out during budding, for this a superphosphate solution is used, with the addition of potassium and urea per tablespoon per bucket of water. The next feeding is carried out after the end of flowering, for the full formation of new plant bulbs. Root dressing is applied with a phosphorus-potassium solution, or with ready-made liquid fertilizers, but you can also apply granular fertilizers, which, when watering, will enrich the soil themselves. Choose any method of fertilization, the main thing is to feed on time.

Self-breeding daffodils

Daffodils are bulbous plants that multiply in several ways, the main ones are vegetative and seed. The latter method is actively used by breeders to obtain new varieties of plants. For this, bulbs of different varieties are subjected to artificial pollination at the time of flowering to obtain a new hybrid. The seeds obtained in this way are sown in specially prepared containers and placed in a room with a temperature of at least 20 degrees, gradually, after two weeks, the temperature is reduced to 15 degrees. A bulb from seedlings begins to develop only in the second third year of life, therefore the process of propagation by seeds is very laborious and long.

Vegetative breeding method for daffodils

This method of reproduction is quite often used by gardeners, since with minimal labor costs, by the second year the mother's bulb will give full-fledged children ready for planting in open ground and independent existence. Depending on the variety, one bulb can give up to four babies, which will be ready for separation in the second third year. To artificially force the onion to begin dividing, it is dug up and not cut too deeply, stored in a cool, well-ventilated room. After two or three months, the bulb will give new children, and it can be planted in the ground with them, and in the second year, new bulbs can be separated and planted on their own.

Reproduction using paired scales

This type of reproduction, involves the selection of large bulbs, drying them, then cleaning from scales and roots. After, with a knife, you need to divide the onion into six, eight parts, soak it in a fungicidal solution, dry it. Select paired scales and pack in a bag with perlite and maintain the incubation temperature at +21 degrees. In four months, if the operation to divide the scales was performed correctly, the formation of new baby bulbs will begin. In autumn, when the formation of young bulbs is over, they can be separated from the scales and planted from pots, and when the bulbs grow up, planted in open ground.

Do I need to plant daffodils

When your daffodils begin to grow, and this time comes around the third year of their constant presence in the same place. They need to be seated, and this is done so that the buds do not become smaller and the daffodils do not get sick. It is better to transplant daffodils after flowering, in summer or autumn, at least once every five years. By transplanting, bulb diseases can be detected at an early stage and prevented.

To plant the daffodils and not damage the bulbs, carefully dig up the flowers with the soil, and then divide the bulbs and plant them in new holes. It is better to dispose of diseased and weak plants, you will not get lush flowering from them.

In a new place chosen for planting daffodils, dig holes, prepare in advance a soil mixture from old rotted manure, peat and sand mixed with ash and superphosphate in small quantities. Place the flower with soil in the hole and sprinkle with the prepared mixture, lightly tamping the planted plant. After planting, water the daffodils abundantly and feed with liquid fertilizers.

Digging up daffodils for storage

At the end of flowering, the gardener faces the question of digging out the bulbs for storage and transplanting, or the implementation of its preservation in the ground. Experienced gardeners say that capricious varieties of daffodils do not tolerate well when they are disturbed more than once every three years. Plants start to get sick and refuse to bloom. However, what about those varieties that grow too quickly? Or those varieties that do not give the desired reproductive result and are prone to frequent diseases? For this, daffodil bulbs are harvested. Digging them up, drying and treating them with fungicidal preparations will cope with dangerous diseases. And the manipulations aimed at stimulating reproduction made with the bulb during storage will force it to give birth to children.

If you do not intend to dig up daffodils, and decide to leave them in the soil, provide them with watering. Remove dried stems and leaves. Organize weeding and provide aeration to the plants, add top dressing, because after flowering, the bulb will begin to form babies. There should be no weeds in your flower bed, their root system can harm the formation of children. For the winter, cover the flowers with a 15 cm layer of mulch.

How to properly distill daffodils

The method to achieve optimal early flowering of daffodils is called forcing. This technology will allow you to receive flowers by a certain date. Forcing is easiest to do in greenhouses, since temperature and humidity are important in this process. However, there are examples of successful distillation in pots.

To prepare the plant for distillation, it is necessary not to allow the plant to bloom; for this, the peduncles are cut off in the early stages. This is done so that the bulb has accumulated enough strength before forcing. Since the technology of forcing itself will be stressful for the plant, because forcing will stimulate not only flowering processes, but also accelerate the growing season until new children are formed.

One way to distill daffodils consists in preparing the bulbs. It is necessary to select healthy large bulbs and dry them for two weeks at a high temperature (+28 - 30 degrees). Then the temperature is gradually reduced to 17 degrees, the humidity is raised to 90%, and then placed in the refrigerator. It should be remembered that it is impossible to freeze the bulbs, the optimum temperature is considered to be at least +8 degrees.

Daffodils are planted no earlier than a month before the expected flowering time. The bulbs are planted either in a greenhouse or in pots with prepared soil. In the greenhouse, the planting of the bulbs is carried out as usual, the main thing is not to deepen the plant too much, it is considered optimal when, when planting for distillation, the top of the bulb rises above the ground. The temperature during distillation for the first week should not exceed + 10 degrees, and the subsequent increase to 18 degrees should take place gradually. In such conditions, the plant is kept until flowering. Caring for daffodils when forcing is no different from those that grow outdoors. The main thing is not to expose the plant to high temperatures, otherwise the bud will crumble, and the active development of the leaves will begin to oppress the peduncle. Another trick is to lower the temperature by three to four degrees during flowering to prolong the life of the flower.

Another way of forcing daffodils.This method differs little from the usual planting of daffodils, they are not stored under special conditions, they are not refrigerated. Two months before the desired flowering, the bulbs are planted in prepared boxes filled with sand and installed in a dark basement with high humidity. In such conditions, the bulb is activated and sprouts. After germination, the boxes are moved, and another well-lit room with a temperature not exceeding 17 degrees. And in a few weeks, flowers will delight you. The main thing is not to forget about regular watering and feeding, otherwise the bulb will deplete. If you want daffodils to bloom for a long time, keep the temperature at the same level, not exceeding the +11 degrees mark.

Growing daffodils in a pot

Narcissus can be grown not only in the open field, but also in pots, but also on your windowsill. To do this, it is necessary to select plant bulbs that have proven themselves well. It is better to choose late-flowering varieties, as they will grow faster at room temperature. The bulb should be heavy and healthy.

For planting, a pot or other adapted container is prepared, which is filled with soil to half, then the bulb is placed, so that the top shows from the soil by a third. Then the soil needs to be lightly tamped and watered. Then the containers with the planted bulbs are placed in a cool place or buried in the ground until sprouts appear. When the plant begins to germinate, the pots are brought into a well-lit room, avoiding direct sunlight on the flowers. The formation of a bud should be accompanied by an increase in temperature to +16 degrees.

Do not forget about caring for your plantings. Water the daffodils regularly, feed them. When the daffodil grows up, you should also take care of the stability of the pot. Thus, the flowering of daffodils can be observed on your own windowsill. After the flowers have faded, trim off the wilted leaves and continue watering so the bulb can finish its growing cycle with babies. After the bulb is dug up, dried, and another should be chosen in its place so that it blooms annually. Because last year's bulb is not suitable for re-forcing daffodils, but in the open field. It is capable of flowering and its normal growing cycle.

The most common diseases of narcissists

In most cases, daffodils are affected by the disease due to non-compliance with agricultural standards when planting and growing flowers. The reasons may be high or low humidity during storage of bulbs, bulbs untreated with antiseptic preparations, high soil saturation with nitrogen, as well as insufficient lighting or its excess due to the detrimental effect of direct sunlight on daffodils. The most common diseases of narcissists

Common diseases among bulbous plants are fungal and viral diseases of different etiology. It can be fusarium, gray and brown rot, spotting, stem nematode, white striping.

To prevent plants from being affected by diseases, it is best to take preventive measures. To do this, you need to treat any planting material with fungicidal preparations intended for this. Storage of bulbs should be carried out in accordance with all norms and rules of agricultural technology. Obligatory weeding and applying wood ash to the site will also not harm the flowers.

If you do find the first signs of the disease, dig up the flower and dispose of it to prevent the spread of infection to healthy plants. Treat nearby flowers with insecticides. It is better to treat the soil with carbation and add wood ash, three to four tablespoons per square meter.

In conclusion, I would like to note that daffodils are suitable for growing gardeners of any level, both beginners and experienced flower growers, due to their unpretentiousness. A variety of varieties will not leave you indifferent, and delicate flowers will decorate any holiday.

If you want to plant unpretentious, spring, bright and delicate flowers, then add daffodils to your flower collection.

For growing daffodils outdoors, find a location and prepare the soil.

Daffodils grow in one place for 4-5 years, then the site thickens strongly and the number of flowers decreases. It is preferable to choose an area that is well lit and closed from the wind, but shaded areas for a daffodil are also suitable: a flower bed, lawn, an alpine slide, a mixed curb, edges of paths, and more.

Daffodils go well in composition with primroses and forget-me-nots. The groundwater level in the selected area should not exceed 60 cm, otherwise the tips of the roots will die off, which will affect the quality of the flowers, i.e. stagnant areas are not suitable.

For growing daffodils, a site prepared with an excellent mixture is better suited: sod land, 3-4-year-old rotted manure, coarse river sand and deep peat - all in equal proportions. Determine the acidity of the soil, if less than 6.5, then add chalk.

How to prepare the soil for planting daffodil bulbs

The soil can be any, but give preference to loams. The clay soil must be well drained. A year before planting the plants, liming the soil, then annually add 1 tbsp of wood ash. for 1 sq. m to maintain a neutral soil pH. Use compost or humus to add nutrients to the soil. You can only feed the soil with manure when it is rotten. In the summer, dig up the area on a shovel bayonet and add 1 sq. M. 3-4 kg of compost with peat (for heavy soil, add another bucket of river sand and humus). Fertilize with mineral fertilizers (2 tablespoons superphosphate, 1 tablespoon potassium sulfate and Agricola per 1 sq. M.). After that, dig up or level all fertilizers with a rake to a depth of 10-12 cm. Now, do not touch the site until autumn, let the earth settle. If in the summer it was not possible to do these "procedures", then one month before planting the bulbs, still devote time to this.

How to plant daffodil bulbs

You need to plant daffodil bulbs already at the end of August, capturing the whole of September. Before planting, inspect the bulbs for damage, leave only healthy ones. They should be heavy with a whole bottom, the diameter of the bulb is at least 5 cm with 2-3 peaks.

Treat with the choice of fungicide "Hom", 0.1% solution of potassium permanganate or smoke bomb "Whist". In general, processing with a smoke bomb protects any bulbs from rot.

Put the flower bulbs in a plastic bag, take 0.5 g of the powder out of the checker on paper and light it directly over the bulbs. The bag will fill with smoke, leave it on for a day.

Depending on the size of the bulbs and the condition of the soil, they choose their depth when planting, it can vary from 12 to 25 cm.For an average daffodil bulb, when planting in heavy soil, deepen it by 12 cm, with light bulbs - by 15-17 cm.Bulbs are planted on children 10 cm from the bottom. To get large bulbs, the distance between each other is 10-12 cm, if you do more, there will be many children, and the daffodil bulb becomes smaller. The distance between the rows is 60-70 cm. Now, mulch the soil with peat with humus layer of 3-4 cm. When the ground freezes up to 4-6 cm, the flowers are covered with leaves or straw (layer 10 cm). As soon as the snow melts after winter, remove the leaf cover and loosen the soil.

How to care for daffodils

If it is rainy in early spring, then fertilize the daffodils with dry fertilizers: 1 tbsp. ash and 1 tsp. superphosphate, Agricola-7, urea and potassium sulfate per 1 sq.m. In dry weather, you need to water the entire period as needed until the end of the roots (about 30 cm). Feed 2 times: when buds are formed, fertilize with a solution: 1 tsp in a bucket of water. superphosphate, urea and potassium sulfate, at the rate of 5 liters of solution per 1 sq.m. The second time when flowering begins: 1 tsp each. Agricola-7, nitrofoski and Effecton on a bucket of water.

Loosening, weeding and cleaning of weeds is constant.

Narcissus bulbs are susceptible to attacks by the daffodil fly, onion hoverfly and root mite. From diseases - various types of rot and fusarium.

From pests, you can advise the spring spraying with Fitoverm (20 ml of the drug per 10 liters of water per 10 square meters. 1 liter of solution).

To prevent fusarium, before planting, daffodil bulbs are treated for 20 minutes in a solution of 0.2% foundationol or topsin.

If the bulbs have been damaged by the attackers, then add 0.2% karate with decis, dry and plant.

You can painlessly transplant daffodils in the spring with a moist clod of earth.

When to dig up and how to store corms

Around June, when the leaves dry up, the daffodil bulbs are dug up.

After harvesting the bulbs, they need to be cleaned of soil, easily detached roots and leaves. Dry it preferably in windy weather and a temperature of 17 ° C, process it for half an hour in Hom solution (50 g per bucket of water), dry it, separate the baby and plant it. Do not forcefully separate the baby from the mother's bulb, it will separate well after 3 years. Store bulbs for 10 days in containers at 20-25 ° C, then at 18 ° C until planting. If the daffodils are left in the ground in summer, then the dried leaves are cut off, the soil is loosened and in August, when the roots are growing, watered.

Reproduction of daffodils

• Seed daffodils are usually propagated when new varieties are developed. In the fall, sow seeds into the ground to a depth of 1-2 cm. In the first year, seedlings do not dive. Withstand at a temperature of 17 ° С for 15-20 days, then transfer the containers to a room where the temperature is 12-15 ° С.
• Daffodils are propagated vegetatively after 2-3 years, when the bulbs have more than one peak. Babies are tied to the mother's bulb on only one side. Separate only those that easily leave themselves or cut off with a part of the bottom.

You can increase the multiplication factor as follows: Make shallow longitudinal cuts at the ends of the bulbs, place in a ventilated place where the temperature is 18-20 ° C. In the cuts, after 2 months, small bulbs will appear, which in 3 years will be able to bloom.

• You can propagate daffodil bulbs with paired scales. Select large onions, dry for a week at a temperature of 18-20 ° C. Clean from roots and scales. Disinfect for 30 minutes in a solution of 0.2% basezole or benomyl. Remove the top of the onion and cut vertically into 8 pieces. Now divide each part into paired scales with a common bottom. The approximate mass of paired scales should be 1 g. Disinfect paired scales in a solution of foundationol, mix with peat and put in a plastic bag. Tie and store at 18-20 ° C. After 3-4 months, daffodil bulbs will form. In October, separate the new bulbs from the scales, treat in a solution of 0.2% benlate and plant in a container with peat and sand, taken in proportions of 3: 1. Store in a cool place (5-10 ° C) in winter. Next year the mass of bulbs will be 12-20 g. Ready for growing in the open field.

The experience of a summer resident in growing daffodils

For many, tulips or snowdrops are a symbol of spring among flowers, but for some, these are delicate daffodils. In March, they are already producing green shoots - so it's time to transplant them to a new place. We recommend separating and replanting daffodils every 3-4 years, then the flowers will remain large and bright.

With the appearance of the first shoots, you need to calculate how many daffodils you want to leave, and how many to transplant. You can remove about half of the plants. Before transplanting, a flower bed with daffodils must be covered with a film for 1-2 days so that the soil warms up. Then gently dig up the flower bulbs with a damp clod of earth. Lay out the sprouts on a piece of film and, if necessary, divide them by hand into several parts.

For planting dug out daffodils in a new flower bed, it is necessary to make holes 20 cm deep.Pour a handful of ash, 2 handfuls of humus and crushed eggshells at the bottom of each. Put the onion on top in a coma of earth, add soil from above and spill everything thoroughly. For the next 2 weeks, do not water or spray the daffodils, but carry out the first feeding with dry fertilizers as soon as the buds begin to form. For feeding 1 sq. m will require 1 tsp. superphosphate, potassium sulfate and urea.

Daffodils are perennial garden bulbous plants of the Amaryllis family. Mainly hybrid varieties are grown, which have become more popular than species plants, due to their high decorativeness.

Features and availability

These flowers are widespread in all areas of agriculture, and are successfully grown outdoors. An exception is areas where there is permafrost. The acquisition of planting material is not difficult - the bulbs of many varieties appear on the shelves by the end of summer and autumn.

Landing in the ground

Planting method

The bulbs are planted in prepared soil to a depth of 5 to 7 times the width of the bulb. The well is pre-watered. The bulb is covered with earth, which is also moistened for compaction. The top layer of the earth is left dry.

Optimal planting time

The best time for planting in the north and in the middle lane is August - September. In the south, they are planted until the end of autumn.

The soil

The soil for daffodils is prepared in advance. It must be water-absorbing and capable of retaining water. It is good if the soil contains clay additives. This is especially important in dry areas. When preparing the soil for daffodils, you can fill it with complex mineral fertilizer. To enrich the composition of the earth, compost or well-rotted manure is introduced. On acidic soils, add lime, chalk or dolomite flour. Daffodils develop well on soils, to which ash is added from time to time.

Important: Daffodils cannot stand fresh manure!

Planting in autumn

After purchasing planting material, it is examined for diseases. Discard soft bulbs, as well as those with pinkish depressions on the bottom. By the time of planting, the bulbs should be well dried and have dense scales. Industrial planting material does not need disinfection treatment. If it was purchased from private individuals, then the non-sprouted bulbs are etched in a 1% solution of potassium permanganate for half an hour, dried and treated with an antifungal drug.

They are planted in a permanent place. The distance between the bulbs is at least 20 cm.

Planting in spring

Bulbs are usually planted in spring, which were used for forcing in winter. During the planting season, they do not bloom, but they gain strength, build up a depleted bulb. Digging them up for re-forcing is not recommended.

If the bulbs were purchased in the spring from the store, then these are the remnants of the autumn collection. Planted early, they may well bloom. warehouses in retail outlets are often unheated.

Caring for a narcissist does not have difficult conditions. Narcissus is a pioneer that appears in almost every new site, and then grows for many years.

Location and lighting

These plants thrive in the sun and shady areas. In very warm areas with an arid climate, it is even recommended to plant daffodils in the shade - there is less moisture loss, and flowering lasts much longer than in an open area. Daffodils growing in the shade will be slightly taller, and they will have more green mass. Therefore, when choosing a place, they are guided solely by how these flowers will fit into the general plan of the site during different periods of the growing season.

Air humidity

The leaves of daffodils are belt-like, dense, preventing excessive loss of moisture. Therefore, the humidity of the air does not in any way affect the development of the plant. It is not recommended to spray it - the natural background of humidity is enough.

Watering

In the southern regions, in the absence of rain, daffodils are watered during the period of budding and flowering. Occasionally it is necessary to water in the middle lane. In the north, this is practically not required - the plant begins active vegetation immediately after the snow melts. At this time, the earth is highly moistened for a long time, whatever its surface. In addition, daffodils have powerful roots that go deep down and extract moisture. During the spring period, moisture is stored in the bulb - this is its main purpose. Therefore, you should not be zealous with watering. Excess moisture during long-term cultivation without digging and drying leads to an increase in the incidence of these hardy plants.

Top dressing

It is believed that the plant must be fertilized 2-3 times per season. But this is not a dogma, there are options.

• if the bulbs have just been planted in well-prepared soil, then a year, or even two, fertilizers can not be applied - an excess of them, especially nitrogen ones, provokes rotting of the bulb;
• in areas with a small snow cover, the planting site of bulbs is often mulched for the winter with rotted manure or compost, in this case the mulch is not removed from the flower bed in spring, but mixed with the soil, spreading over the entire surface - fertilizer is also not required;
• the best fertilizer for daffodils is the introduction of a small amount of ash, a source of potassium and phosphorus, before winter. And there is a lot of nitrogen in the atmospheric air, it is perfectly absorbed by the leaves and is included in the growth process.

Formative pruning of the plant is not carried out. Moreover, they try to preserve the green mass of the plant as long as possible - until it dries completely naturally. For forcing plants and outdoor plants, peduncles are pruned to obtain bouquet material.

Cut method

The flower stalks of the daffodil are leafless, therefore, the removal of a flower during the growth process is well tolerated - the plant does not spend energy on setting and ripening fruits, the work of the entire vegetative mass is redirected to creating stocks in the bulb.

Peduncles have long been more likely to break out rather than cut off. This is believed to reduce the possibility of plant-to-plant transfer of viruses. At the base of the bulb, the peduncle can be easily separated without a knife.

Daffodils for a bouquet are harvested in the morning or in the evening, in the phase of a colored bud or in a half-release. If transportation and storage is to be carried out, then the flowers are immediately wrapped in paper and sent to a very cool place - the lower the positive temperature, and the less its fluctuations, the longer the plant will stay in suspended animation, without losing the quality of further flowering.

Daffodil transplant

When the area allocated for daffodils is densely overgrown, the plants need replanting. There may be other reasons, such as a change in composition.

Transplant methods

They dig out the planting material, divide the nests, process the damaged areas and plant them. When digging in summer, the bulbs are dried.

Transplant in autumn

The further fate of the plants depends on their purpose: some are planted in open ground for rooting, some, the strongest, are laid in a basement or a place with similar conditions for further distillation in winter, small change is seated several pieces in containers or on drawbills for growing, and the surplus give to friends and neighbors or sell.

Transplant in spring

This procedure causes some difficulties in the spring. Non-sprouted plants are difficult to find in the ground without damaging the plantings of other perennials growing here. When greenery comes out of the ground, daffodils can already be distinguished from most plants, but a neat digging is unlikely to work - their bulbs tend to go deeper below other bulbs, and when removed from the soil, injuries and losses are inevitable. Only separately planted daffodil bulbs can be dug up in spring with the least damage, but even this does not happen without breaking some of the roots.

If a transplant is nevertheless necessary, then it must be carried out with a large clod of earth, by a transshipment method, otherwise there will be no flowering in the current season, and there will be losses of bulbs.

There are several breeding methods. The procedure is combined with an autumn daffodil transplant.

Seed reproduction

Without loss of traits, only species, natural plants reproduce by seeds. Hybrid varieties lose the properties of the parent plant and show signs of simple initial species.

To collect seeds, the flower is left on the plant until flowering. Very soon the ovary becomes noticeable, and soon the fruit is a triangular box. At the first signs of ripening, when cracking spots are outlined, the peduncle is removed and transferred to the room. There, the box starts to open. Seeds are harvested without waiting for complete drying, and immediately sown in open ground. Seedlings appear next spring or summer. Species seedlings bloom for 3-4 years, and hybrid ones - for 5-7.

Bulb propagation

The most common and uncomplicated breeding method. When digging a nest for a transplant, it turns out that instead of a once planted one bulb, there are several quite mature and a large number of small ones. The nest is carefully divided, ripe bulbs are separated without difficulty or damage. The planting material is checked for visible signs of disease, disinfected, dried in a warm place and planted, donated, sold. Ripe bulbs in the soil bloom in the next growing season.

Reproduction by children

Usually, when transplanting and dividing the nest of bulbs, small immature baby bulbs simply scatter on the ground and are lost in it. It is not surprising that after some time an adult daffodil blooms in the most unexpected place - it means that a nest was once carried here. Children can be left on the mother plant so that they grow up and reach the size of flowering, or they can be separated and planted in a school - a drawing bed, where they will grow up, waiting for transplantation to a permanent place. Children bloom in 2 - 3 years.

Reproduction by scales

As such, daffodils do not have scales, the bulb is solid, dense, without the use of special techniques, it does not break up into separate parts. Occasionally, the method of reproduction is by dividing the bulb. If it is necessary to multiply a rare variety, this may be justified, but there are also risks of losing a single copy.

Divide the onion into 2 - 4 parts without cutting the bottom. It turns out that there are 4 onions on one bottom. Slices are dried, the material is placed in the bottom in a humid environment, for example, moss. After a while, numerous children should appear around each part. They are also grown to obtain numerous plants. After the separation of the children, parts of the bulb can be planted in open ground and grown to the size of flowering. With this method of reproduction, it is possible for the cut parts to rot or dry out, as well as the death of some children.

Fortunately, daffodils grow quite well without surgery, so this method is rarely used.

Nowadays, daffodils are grown exclusively for the beauty of the flower. Aromatic substances, similar to those previously obtained from its bulbs and flowers, have long been produced artificially.

Flowering time

Species daffodils are mostly early spring plants that bloom immediately after the snow melts and for a short time. Hybrid varieties have a wide range of flowering times - from early spring to autumn. To prevent the land from becoming empty after flowering, bulbs are planted in one place with different periods of entry into decorativeness.

Flower shape

Natural species are six-petaled flowers of yellow or white-yellow color, with a tubular crown.

Hybrid varieties are represented by flowers of simple, semi-double and double form

In the color of the hybrids, there are white, yellow, orange-red, pink, beige, cream colors, as well as various options for a mixture of colors.

Diseases and pests

Bacterial rot and viral infections can be a problem.

The first appear due to waterlogging, the introduction of fresh manure or an excess of nitrogen-containing fertilizers. Rot is clearly visible when digging up, they are cut out and the cut site is processed.

The latter are carried by leaf-eating insects or a tool when cutting flowers. The diseased plant stands out with multi-colored strokes on the petals and leaves. The specimen is immediately dug up together with the bulb, trying not to hurt other plants, and destroyed, because there is no effective treatment.

According to the modern classification, there are 13 groups of daffodils, only one of which contains natural species. The rest are modern hybrids. They are divided into groups according to the shape of the crown or according to the original type.

Varietal daffodils are a whole range of colors and shapes. Most of them are monochromatic in traditional white and yellow colors.

Therefore, bred varieties with several corollas on the peduncle of the group Jonquilliaceae aroused great interest. Also, the group's daffodils are in great demand. Multi-flowered or Tacetate - up to 20 buds are formed on one peduncle! In addition, they have a pleasant aroma, which, in general, is not typical for daffodils.

Terry varieties gained popularity very quickly. These are plants of different groups and flowering periods, but with a fluffy multi-petalled flower. Large-flowered late-flowering varieties are also in demand among gardeners. And, regardless of belonging in the group, daffodils with a pink perianth or crown are always at the peak of popularity.

Note to the florist

• Cut daffodils do well in very cold water. The water is changed daily, the stem is trimmed by half a centimeter. Other flowers react poorly to the neighborhood with a daffodil in one vase - they are oppressed by the milky juice released from the peduncle.
• All parts of the plant, when damaged, secrete a poisonous milky sap.
• After the flowering of daffodils, it is good to plant annual marigolds in their place - they prevent the appearance of many diseases on the bulbs, heal the soil around the plant.

Answers to questions from gardeners

It is a self-renewing perennial plant. If the entire plantation is not destroyed by frost or a virus, then they will always live in the garden, even in the absence of care.

Why doesn't the daffodil bloom?

Most likely, the bulb has not yet grown to bloom size. A decrease in the number of peduncles on a long-planted curtain indicates that the planting is too thickened, it is required to plant the bulbs and apply fertilizer to the soil.

Why do buds dry up?

Perhaps thrips or a daffodil fly appeared over the plantings. Sick peduncles are cut, the plants are treated with broad-spectrum insecticides.

Why are daffodils low?

These are naturally short plants. There are species that do not exceed 25 cm. In addition, plants living in an open, sunny place are always lower than those planted in the shade. If the flowers become smaller and the growth of plants decreases, this indicates the degeneration of the flower, the need to plant a nest with a check for diseases, and possibly to change the planting material.

How to care for a plant in winter?

When grown outdoors, winter maintenance is not required. If the snow cover is higher than 25 cm, then nothing threatens the plant. With little snow, severe winters require shelter for the winter.

If the onion is dug up and left for forcing, store it in a cool place. The rest period is at least two months. A month before the desired flowering period, it is planted 2/3 in the ground and transferred to a bright room with a cooler temperature. When the peduncle appears, the temperature is increased to accelerate the flowering, and to delay the dissolution, it is left in the cool. When the bud opens, the flower lasts longer if it is kept cool.

Daffodils are traditional garden plants, their diversity, beauty and unpretentiousness win the hearts of every owner of the infield. It is not difficult to tame a plant, the range of varieties offered on the market is huge, you can always find plants to your liking.

Narcissus is a spring flower, loved by both children and adults, but much to disappointment, you can enjoy its beauty for a very short time. However, its bulbs can be stored in the ground for up to eight years, and without much effort in the spring it will bloom again in small white or yellow flowers. You can also collect a bouquet of daffodils, it will stand for a long time in a vase. The homeland of the flower is the Mediterranean.

Feature and Description

Narcissus is a perennial bulbous plant... His flowers are large, located on the peduncle singly or collected in tassels, with a strong odor, slightly drooping, simple or double. The crown is formed by outgrowths of the perianth lobes. It can be in the form of a tube, bell or bowl, of different lengths, most often differ in the color of the box.

The garden flower narcissus belongs to the amaryllis class. In nature, the flower grows in deciduous forests in the mountains and in wet meadows.

The flower belongs to the group of ephemeroids, that is, they grow and develop in a short time in the spring. Most often, the flowering period occurs at the end of spring, the daffodil blooms for 3 weeks. By summer, the ground part of the daffodil dies off, and the bulb remains in the ground. With this, he perfectly tolerates drought and frost.

A flower without leaves, it can reach up to half a meter in height, smooth, round and slightly flattened, sometimes ribbed with a pair of keels on the sides.

The flowers are large or medium in size with a delicate, sometimes pungent odor. The perianth is formed from six petals. Accumulated outgrowths form a crown of various lengths, diameters and shapes. The crown and perianth may be identical in color or differ. The shape and shade of the crown are the main features of the variety.

The bulbs are perennial. Young plants that have not yet bloomed have one vertex; over time, their structure becomes more complex, becoming two, and then three vertex.

The bulbs of adult plants are large, round or oval, and their shape is determined by the narcissus variety. Each year, from one to three babies are formed in the bulb. Kidney formation is completed mainly in two years. The bulbs have practically no rest time, since two buds of different ages are continuously developing. This makes it possible to influence the flower 2-3 years before its flowering.

Color varieties and classification

The many varieties and forms of flowers are the result of the hard work of numerous breeders. Breeding activities began in the eighteenth century, and the maximum results have been achieved today. Today, more than twelve thousand varieties of daffodils are known, all of them are listed in various catalogs. All varieties can be divided into twelve classes:

Care and cultivation

Daffodils tolerate shade well, but in sunny places the number of flowers and bulbs is much higher. To get beautiful flowers, you need to know and follow some rules for growing a plant. These are the simple conditions for good growth and flowering. narcissus:

After flowering

After the flowering period, the leaves of the faded flowers are not cut off, but wait until they dry. At this time, there is a supply of nutrients in the bulb. What to do with the daffodil further depends on whether it will be planted or left in the same place until next year.

If the plant will be planted, then it must be dug up and prepared for transplantation. If the flowers are left in the same area, then after flowering it is necessary to feed them with fertilizers with a high content of potassium and phosphorus.

It is believed that daffodils are very unpretentious plants that do not need shelter for the winter. But it happens that shelter is needed. If the flowers were planted at the end of September or later, the plant will not have time to take root and may die in case of severe frosts.

It is also advised to cover large-colored varieties of daffodils - they are most vulnerable to cold weather. A layer of dry foliage about fifteen centimeters thick is used as a cover.

Terry varieties of flowers do not tolerate cold weather. When planting them in the fall, it is necessary to calculate the planting time so that before the first frost the flowers have time to take root. For the winter period, they also need to be covered with a layer of fallen leaves. Terry daffodils are very demanding on the composition of the earth. They grow and bloom better on light sandy soils than on heavy ones.

Observing these simple rules for growing and caring, you can get wonderful fragrant flowers that can be used both in a bouquet and in decorating a summer cottage.

Narcissus is a very attractive spring flower that belongs to the bulbous type of flowers. It got its name from the Greek word "narkao", which means to stun or intoxicate. This name is most likely due to its delicious scent. What a narcissist looks like and other information about him is given in the article.

Description of the plant and when daffodils bloom

The flower is a bulbous plant that belongs to the perennial group. The leaves are long and straight, dark green in color, of a linear type, extending directly from the root. Depending on the variety, their width may differ, but not much. Flowers grow on a leafless stem, which can reach a height of forty or even fifty centimeters. Due to the fact that the stem has no leaves, cutting flowers does not harm the plant in any way. In this case, the bulbs are also not harmed.

At the top of the peduncle there is a nodule from which the pedicel, which has a membranous wrapper, departs. The flowers themselves are usually single, although sometimes they are collected in a brush, they have a rather strong and pleasant aroma, a little wilted type. Flowers may vary in type and color, but there are not too many of them. Mostly white or yellow shades of colors are found, which can be plain or double.

It usually blooms towards the end of spring, that is, late May or early June. Its perianth has a long cylindrical tube and a six-part limb, with a tubular, bell-shaped or bowl-shaped crown (crown), the length of which may vary. After flowering, in place of the flower, a fruit is formed - a fleshy box, which has a tricuspid type, in which the seeds are located. There are a lot of seeds, but they quickly lose their germination.

Narcissus is perhaps one of the most valuable plants used for decoration and blooming in the spring. It is often used in gardens and flower beds, planted on lawns and flower beds, grown for cutting and even used as a potted plant in winter.

One of the characteristic features of flower bulbs is the presence of two kidney renewal... Its roots are located at the bottom of the bulb and their most intensive development is noted in the autumn, and then die off every year. They can reach up to thirty centimeters in length.

What types of daffodils are there

Breeders have achieved a fairly large number of varieties, both terry and simple, and they mainly differ in color. Most often it is white or yellow, but there are also two-color specimens. Especially beautiful are those with a pink crown.

The only species found in the CIS countries is the narrow-leaved daffodil, which is found mainly in the Carpathians. Although there are many varieties of them, garden daffodils are usually classified into several groups:

How to grow daffodils

Narcissus is not a picky plant, however, in order to grow them, you need to know some rules. Although the narcissus culture is quite shade-tolerant, more abundant flowering is noted on the illuminated areas and they give much more bulbs.

Daffodils are propagated mainly with the help of bulbs and their children. Although the seeds ripen, the percentage of their germination is very low. Basically, planting by seeds is used by breeders when breeding new varieties. When the number of flowering shoots begins to decrease, this is the first signal for a transplant. You can start doing it when the foliage begins to dry out. First, you need to dig up and dry the bulbs of the plant and put them in storage. When the bulbs are dug up late, this can negatively affect their quality, so there is no need to delay with this.

Planting of daffodils is carried out towards the end of summer - beginning of autumn. The end of August and the beginning of September are perfect for this. Daffodil bulbs are planted to a depth of about ten or fifteen centimeters, while observing a distance of 10-15 centimeters between them. This beautiful flower is quite unpretentious, therefore it easily adapts to environmental conditions. Most varieties are frost-hardy and tolerate cold winters well without additional shelter. However, if there is little snow in winter, they can freeze out. For this reason, they are sometimes mulched before the onset of winter. Peat may be suitable for mulching, then the plant can be covered. As soon as spring comes and the snow melts, the shelter must be removed.

What kind of care do narcissists need?

Daffodils love light, although they are considered shade-tolerant. In addition, this flower does not like drafts, so you should take care of the place for planting them in advance. It is necessary to choose a sufficiently bright place that is protected from drafts. If you cannot find a bright place, then you can plant it in the shade. But then, one must understand that the number of their colors may be lower.

Daffodils are a moisture-loving plant and it follows that they need to be provided with additional moisture, especially if there is no rain during the flowering period. The rest of the course is weeding as necessary and removing diseased and damaged leaves and shoots. To improve the quality of the bulbs, shoots with flowers that have already faded should be cut off. A daffodil can grow in one place for about six le, after which it is better to transplant it to another place.

This flower loves nitrogen-potash soil, so after planting, especially in the first year, it needs intensive feeding. The plants are fed for the first time in early spring, when the first shoots appear. But first, this is done with a small amount of fertilizer, because an excess of nitrogen can lead to the appearance of diseases on the flower. The second time the daffodil should be fed when the peduncle appears with potassium and nitrogen. The third feeding with nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium is carried out during the period of full budding, and the fourth with the help of phosphorus and potassium is carried out during flowering.

It should be noted that in no case should you fertilize a flower with fresh manure, because this fertilizer can attract pests dangerous for the narcissus, such as the daffodil fly, or the onion hoverfly. Manure is allowed to be scattered on the soil prepared in the future for planting these flowers a year or two earlier.

Thus, when growing a daffodil, you should properly care for the plant, that is, take care of:

• soil;
• lighting;
• top dressing;
• regular watering;
• correct planting and transplanting of the plant.

Growing a daffodil in a pot

Some growers admire daffodils in winter, and for this they transplant them into flower pots and grow them at home. Many may think that this is difficult, however, it is not at all true. However, this cultivation has its own nuances. For example:

• for forcing you need larger and undamaged bulbs;
• the pot must be deep, that is, at least 15-20 centimeters deep;
• it is necessary to plant the bulbs so that a small part of them (at least 1 /) remains on the surface;
• then the plant must be provided with rest and left in the dark at a temperature of + 5-7 ° C.

After that, shoots should begin to appear and now the plant needs a lighter place where the temperature can reach +10 degrees. Exposure to direct sunlight should only be avoided. When buds begin to appear, the temperature should be raised to 20 degrees.